When I first started making epoxy tables, I thought resin was resin. You buy a kit, pour it in, let it cure, and boom—done. Turns out, there’s a lot more to it. If you’re wondering what kind of resin is used for tables, here’s what I figured out after a lot of trial, error, and a few sticky disasters.
Why I Started Researching Resin for Tables
I was seeing river tables everywhere and needed answers
Those thick, clear pours between two live edge slabs looked unreal. I had to know: what kind of resin holds that much depth without cracking or overheating?
I didn’t realize how many types of resin there actually were
At first, I assumed all resin worked for all projects. Wrong. The deeper I went, the more I realized: different table resin types are built for very different things.
The Main Types of Epoxy Resin Used in Tables
Tabletop Epoxy Resin — What It's For and When to Use It
This one’s designed for thin coats (1/8" or so). It cures fast, finishes hard and glossy, and works great as a final layer. It's the best epoxy resin for tabletops if you're just sealing the surface. I use it often on finishes like the ones in my coffee table collection.
Deep Pour (Casting) Epoxy Resin — Why It Works for River Tables
Want to pour 1–2 inches (or more) in a single go? This is your guy. Slower cure time means less heat, fewer bubbles, and crystal-clear finishes. I use this on most of my epoxy river tables.
UV Resin, Polyester, and Polyurethane — Do They Have a Place?
UV resin is mostly for art or small details. Polyester smells awful and cracks easily—wouldn’t recommend it for tables. Polyurethane can work for finishes but usually isn’t the star of the show.
Table Style Matters: Matching Resin to the Table You Want
Standard Epoxy Table Tops (Flat, Clear Finishes)
Use a tabletop resin. It self-levels, cures glossy, and gives you that glass-like surface.
Epoxy River Tables (Thick, Transparent Centers)
Go for a deep-pour or casting resin. You need something slow-curing that won’t overheat in thicker layers.
Tables With Embedded Objects (Rocks, Photos, Faux Plants)
Casting resin wins here too. It flows around objects better and doesn’t trap as many bubbles. You can see examples of this in my succulent resin table build.
Layered or Themed Epoxy Tables (Color Blends & Art Effects)
Either type works depending on your depth, but timing is everything. You want long working times so you can layer without rushing.
What to Consider When Choosing a Resin
Curing Depth and Pour Limits
If you pour tabletop resin too thick, it’ll overheat or crack. Know the limits.
Working Time vs. Fast Set
Tabletop resins cure faster. Deep-pour resins give you more time to work (which saved me more than once).
Heat Resistance and Durability
If your table’s going in a kitchen or dining room, pick a resin with good heat resistance. I break that down more in Can Resin Tables Withstand Heat?.
Gloss, Clarity, and Yellowing Over Time
Look for UV-stable resin—especially for clear or lightly tinted tables. Cheap stuff will yellow, especially near windows.
What Surprised Me Most About Using Resin for Tables
Mixing Ratios Matter More Than I Thought
Off by just a little? Your table might never fully cure. Ask me how I know.
Some Resins Bubble Way More Than Others
Even with good technique, some brands just don’t behave. Others are like glass right out of the mold.
Cheap Resin Isn’t Always a Bargain
I’ve tried discount kits. They smelled bad, yellowed fast, and ruined good wood. Lesson learned. I talk more about this in Are Epoxy Tables Worth It?.
FAQ: Quick Questions I Had (And You Might Too)
What’s the difference between casting resin and tabletop resin?
Casting resin pours deep and cures slow. Tabletop resin is for thin coats and fast hardening.
Can you mix resin types in one table?
Yes. I often do deep-pour for structure, then top it with a thin layer of tabletop resin for shine.
How do I know if a resin is food-safe or heat-resistant?
Look for FDA compliance and read the datasheets. If it doesn’t say it’s food safe or heat resistant, assume it’s not. More on this in Are Epoxy Tables Toxic?.
The Resin I Ended Up Using (And Why)
My personal favorite for river tables
EcoPoxy, FlowCast, TotalBoat ThickSet, or Stone Coat Deep Pour. All of them give me clarity, long work time, and low bubbles.
What I use for surface coats
TotalBoat TableTop, Superclear, or ArtResin. Smooth finish, solid durability, and easy to apply.
What I’d avoid next time
Anything labeled “general purpose” or without detailed instructions. If it can’t tell me the cure time, pour depth, or food safety rating—I’m out.
Resources I Found Helpful Along the Way
Mixing calculators and coverage charts
Sites like TotalBoat and Stone Coat have free epoxy calculators so you don’t guess (and overbuy like I did at first).
Community groups and maker forums
Facebook groups, Reddit threads, YouTube comments—you’ll learn more from real people than any brand’s marketing.
Where I source my resin now
I buy from specialty suppliers when I want consistent results. Either directly or via Amazon—just stick with brands that back their product with clear data sheets and real reviews.
Final Thoughts: Pick the Resin That Matches the Build
Don’t just grab the first kit you see. Know what you’re building—and choose the resin that matches your depth, your timeline, and your finish goals. If you’re still wondering what the best resin for tables is, start with your table’s design. Is it a river? A flat coat? Something with layers or objects inside? That’s your answer.
Thanks for taking the time to read—I really appreciate it. I hope something in my process (or my mistakes) helps you along the way. If you want a custom piece or hit a wall building your own, feel free to drop a comment or reach out—happy to help. Have a blessed day!
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