DIY Epoxy Wood Coffee Table: What I Built, Messed Up, and Loved

This wasn’t my first epoxy table—but it’s the one that taught me the most. From the pour that nearly ruined the base to the finish I still use today, this DIY epoxy coffee table build was a wild ride. Here's the step-by-step of what I did, what I’d absolutely do differently, and the final result I’d build again.

Step 1: Picking the Wood Slab

I started with a black walnut slab I had on hand—nothing fancy, just something with decent grain and a solid live edge. What I didn’t check? Moisture content. That mistake showed up later in curing (and warping).
👉 What’s the Best Wood for an Epoxy Table? Here’s What I’ve Tried (and Loved)

Step 2: Building the Mold

This part always takes longer than I expect. I used melamine boards, sheathed the inside with tuck tape, and sealed corners with silicone. One tip: double-check for leaks with a water test—resin doesn’t forgive.

Step 3: Mixing and Pouring the Epoxy

I used a deep pour resin, but I underestimated just how much I needed. (Spoiler: I had to mix a second batch mid-pour. Big no-no.)
👉 What Kind of Resin Is Used for Tables? Here’s What I Learned

For color, I went with a deep ocean blue, trying to capture a subtle water effect. It looked fantastic—until I saw a giant air bubble underneath one knot in the wood.

Step 4: Tackling the Bubbles

I torched too early and disturbed the surface. Then I waited too long and bubbles hardened into the pour. What finally worked? A slower pour with staggered heat passes and a pre-sealed wood surface.

Step 5: Sanding and Flattening

Flattening the cured slab took forever. I used a router sled, then orbital sanded from 80 grit up to 320. My biggest regret? Not sealing the wood edges first—some areas soaked up epoxy unevenly.

Step 6: Applying the Finish

Here’s the part I’m most proud of. I used a flood coat of table top epoxy, then followed up with a thin layer of Walrus Oil to bring the wood back to life. The contrast between matte wood and glossy resin? Unreal.
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Step 7: Attaching the Legs

I picked raw steel hairpin legs for a modern-industrial vibe. Super easy to install with threaded inserts—though I did split a corner by rushing it. Pre-drill every time.