Wood Selection & Preparation for Epoxy Resin Tables

Walnut, Maple, Oak, and Elm are some of the best options thanks to their durability, rich grain patterns, and stability when paired with resin. I shared what I’ve actually used (and which wood I’d pick again) in this blog about my favorite woods for epoxy tables.

Most hardwoods pair well with epoxy, especially kiln-dried slabs from walnut, oak, maple, elm, or cherry. I shared my experience using different wood species in this blog about what woods have worked best for me.

Yes — but softwoods like pine are more likely to warp, absorb moisture, trap bubbles, and dent more easily than hardwoods. Proper sealing and support are critical if you choose to use them.

Yes — as long as the wood is structurally sound overall, you can remove loose or rotten sections and fill the gaps with epoxy to stabilize and preserve the slab. I walked through this exact process in this blog about repairing one of my epoxy tables.

Yes — you can make an all-resin table using a full epoxy pour, but it will be heavier, more expensive, and may require more advanced mold support to prevent warping or cracking.

Yes — the wood must be fully dried, ideally kiln-dried, to prevent warping, cracking, or resin adhesion issues. Using wood with excess moisture can lead to major curing problems later on. Use a moisture meter and make sure your wood is less than 10%.

Make sure the slab is fully dried (ideally kiln-dried), then flatten it, sand the surface, seal it to prevent bubbles, and stabilize any cracks before pouring resin.

Yes—bark should be removed to ensure a clean bond and prevent future detachment.